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Prune
Couverture de Prune
Prune
A Cookbook
NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER

From Gabrielle Hamilton, bestselling author of Blood, Bones & Butter, comes her eagerly anticipated cookbook debut filled with signature recipes from her celebrated New York City restaurant Prune.
 
NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY PUBLISHERS WEEKLY
NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE SEASON BY
Time • O: The Oprah Magazine • Bon Appétit • Eater
A self-trained cook turned James Beard Award–winning chef, Gabrielle Hamilton opened Prune on New York’s Lower East Side fifteen years ago to great acclaim and lines down the block, both of which continue today. A deeply personal and gracious restaurant, in both menu and philosophy, Prune uses the elements of home cooking and elevates them in unexpected ways. The result is delicious food that satisfies on many levels.  
 
Highly original in concept, execution, look, and feel, the Prune cookbook is an inspired replica of the restaurant’s kitchen binders. It is written to Gabrielle’s cooks in her distinctive voice, with as much instruction, encouragement, information, and scolding as you would find if you actually came to work at Prune as a line cook. The recipes have been tried, tasted, and tested dozens if not hundreds of times. Intended for the home cook as well as the kitchen professional, the instructions offer a range of signals for cooks—a head’s up on when you have gone too far, things to watch out for that could trip you up, suggestions on how to traverse certain uncomfortable parts of the journey to ultimately help get you to the final destination, an amazing dish.
 
Complete with more than with more than 250 recipes and 250 color photographs, home cooks will find Prune’s most requested recipes—Grilled Head-on Shrimp with Anchovy Butter, Bread Heels and Pan Drippings Salad, Tongue and Octopus with Salsa Verde and Mimosa’d Egg, Roasted Capon on Garlic Crouton, Prune’s famous Bloody Mary (and all 10 variations). Plus, among other items, a chapter entitled “Garbage”—smart ways to repurpose foods that might have hit the garbage or stockpot in other restaurant kitchens but are turned into appetizing bites and notions at Prune.
 
Featured here are the recipes, approach, philosophy, evolution, and nuances that make them distinctively Prune’s. Unconventional and honest, in both tone and content, this book is a welcome expression of the cookbook as we know it.
Praise for Prune
 
“Fresh, fascinating . . . entirely pleasurable . . . Since 1999, when the chef Gabrielle Hamilton put Triscuits and canned sardines on the first menu of her East Village bistro, Prune, she has nonchalantly broken countless rules of the food world. The rule that a successful restaurant must breed an empire. The rule that chefs who happen to be women should unconditionally support one another. The rule that great chefs don’t make great writers (with her memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter). And now, the rule that restaurant food has to be simplified and prettied up for home cooks in order to produce a useful, irresistible cookbook. . . . [Prune] is the closest thing to the bulging loose-leaf binder, stuck in a corner of almost every restaurant kitchen, ever to be printed and bound between cloth covers. (These happen to be a beautiful deep, dark magenta.)”The New York Times
 
“One of the most brilliantly minimalist cookbooks in recent memory . . . at once conveys the thrill of restaurant...
NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER

From Gabrielle Hamilton, bestselling author of Blood, Bones & Butter, comes her eagerly anticipated cookbook debut filled with signature recipes from her celebrated New York City restaurant Prune.
 
NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY PUBLISHERS WEEKLY
NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE SEASON BY
Time • O: The Oprah Magazine • Bon Appétit • Eater
A self-trained cook turned James Beard Award–winning chef, Gabrielle Hamilton opened Prune on New York’s Lower East Side fifteen years ago to great acclaim and lines down the block, both of which continue today. A deeply personal and gracious restaurant, in both menu and philosophy, Prune uses the elements of home cooking and elevates them in unexpected ways. The result is delicious food that satisfies on many levels.  
 
Highly original in concept, execution, look, and feel, the Prune cookbook is an inspired replica of the restaurant’s kitchen binders. It is written to Gabrielle’s cooks in her distinctive voice, with as much instruction, encouragement, information, and scolding as you would find if you actually came to work at Prune as a line cook. The recipes have been tried, tasted, and tested dozens if not hundreds of times. Intended for the home cook as well as the kitchen professional, the instructions offer a range of signals for cooks—a head’s up on when you have gone too far, things to watch out for that could trip you up, suggestions on how to traverse certain uncomfortable parts of the journey to ultimately help get you to the final destination, an amazing dish.
 
Complete with more than with more than 250 recipes and 250 color photographs, home cooks will find Prune’s most requested recipes—Grilled Head-on Shrimp with Anchovy Butter, Bread Heels and Pan Drippings Salad, Tongue and Octopus with Salsa Verde and Mimosa’d Egg, Roasted Capon on Garlic Crouton, Prune’s famous Bloody Mary (and all 10 variations). Plus, among other items, a chapter entitled “Garbage”—smart ways to repurpose foods that might have hit the garbage or stockpot in other restaurant kitchens but are turned into appetizing bites and notions at Prune.
 
Featured here are the recipes, approach, philosophy, evolution, and nuances that make them distinctively Prune’s. Unconventional and honest, in both tone and content, this book is a welcome expression of the cookbook as we know it.
Praise for Prune
 
“Fresh, fascinating . . . entirely pleasurable . . . Since 1999, when the chef Gabrielle Hamilton put Triscuits and canned sardines on the first menu of her East Village bistro, Prune, she has nonchalantly broken countless rules of the food world. The rule that a successful restaurant must breed an empire. The rule that chefs who happen to be women should unconditionally support one another. The rule that great chefs don’t make great writers (with her memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter). And now, the rule that restaurant food has to be simplified and prettied up for home cooks in order to produce a useful, irresistible cookbook. . . . [Prune] is the closest thing to the bulging loose-leaf binder, stuck in a corner of almost every restaurant kitchen, ever to be printed and bound between cloth covers. (These happen to be a beautiful deep, dark magenta.)”The New York Times
 
“One of the most brilliantly minimalist cookbooks in recent memory . . . at once conveys the thrill of restaurant...
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Extraits-
  • From the book Bar Snacks



    Canned Sardines with Triscuits, Dijon Mustard, and Cornichons

    1 can sardines in oil

    1 dollop Dijon mustard

    small handful cornichons

    small handful Triscuit crackers

    1 parsley branch

    Only Ruby brand—boneless and skinless in oil— from Morocco.

    Buckle the can after you open it to make it easier to lift the sardines out of the oil without breaking them.

    Stack the sardines on the plate the same way they looked in the can—more or less. Don’t crisscross or zigzag or otherwise make “restauranty.”

    Commit to the full stem of parsley, not just the leaf. Chewing the stems freshens the breath.



    Radishes with Sweet Butter and Kosher Salt

    red globe or French breakfast radishes, well washed to remove any sand, but left whole with a few stems intact

    unsalted butter, waxy and cool but not cold

    kosher salt

    There is nothing to this, but still . . . I have seen it go out looking less than stellar—and that’s embarrassing considering it’s been on the menu since we opened and is kind of “signature,” if Prune had such a thing as signature dishes.

    Keep the radishes fresh with ice and clean kitchen towels.

    Cull out any overgrown, cottony, spongy radishes; keep your butter at the perfect temperature; and be graceful on the plate, please.



    Garrotxa with Buttered Brown Bread and Salted Red Onion


    peeled red onion, halved and thinly sliced into ribbons

    kosher salt

    brown bread

    unsalted butter, cool but softened for spreading Garrotxa from Spain

    extra virgin olive oil

    freshly ground black pepper

    thyme

    Liberally salt the red onion and toss with your fingers to break up the ribs. Let sit 10 minutes to weep out some of their bite.

    Spread bread with a generous amount of butter, wall to wall. Cut bread in triangles and arrange on plate.

    Lay slices of cheese next to bread.

    Heap a generous tangle of salted onion on the plate.

    Drizzle whole thing—cheese, buttered bread, and onion—with EVOO just before selling. Be light-handed with the oil—3 fats on one plate makes sense here but it’s about flavor and texture, not about ostentatious macho eating. Keep it accurate.

    One grind black pepper and branch of thyme to finish



    Marinated White Anchovies with Shaved Celery and Marcona Almonds

    Per plate:

    1 scant cup thinly sliced, sweet, tender inner branches of celery, leaves left whole

    1 short dozen marinated white anchovies

    ¼ cup Marcona almonds

    good drizzle extra virgin olive oil

    brief squeeze lemon juice

    lemon cheek

    few grinds black pepper

    big pinch parsley leaves, mixed into celery and celery leaves

    Deviled Eggs

    4 orders

    8 eggs, still cold from the fridge

    3 Tablespoons Dijon mustard

    ∂ cup Hellmann’s mayonnaise

    flat-leaf Italian parsley

    Bring large pot of water to a boil.

    Pierce the eggs at the tip with a pushpin to prevent exploding.

    Arrange eggs in the basket of the spider and gently lower them into the boiling water. This way they won’t crack from free-falling to the bottom of the pot when you are adding them.

    Let boil 10 minutes, including the minutes it takes for water to return to boil after adding the cold eggs.

    Moving quickly, retrieve 1 egg and crack it all the way open, in half, to see what you have inside. (If center has any rareness larger than a dime, continue cooking...
Au sujet de l’auteur-
  • Gabrielle Hamilton is the chef/owner of Prune restaurant in New York’s East Village and the author of the New York Times bestselling memoir Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef. She received an MFA in fiction writing from the University of Michigan, and her work has appeared in The New Yorker, The New York Times, GQ, Bon Appétit, Saveur, House Beautiful, and Food & Wine. She has also authored the 8-week Chef column in The New York Times, and her work has been anthologized in eight volumes of Best Food Writing. She has appeared on The Martha Stewart Show and the Food Network, among other TV and she has won a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef NYC. She currently lives in Manhattan with her two sons.
Critiques-
  • Publisher's Weekly

    Starred review from September 15, 2014
    This is one of the most brilliantly minimalist cookbooks in recent memory: no preface, no introduction, no interminable recounting of all that Hamilton has witnessed in her 15 years as the chef/owner of New York’s Prune restaurant. Instead, nested throughout the 250 recipes, in a handwritten font, are scribblings, usually in the form of orders rather than suggestions, as if the reader were on her payroll. It’s an appealing tactic, in a masochistic kind of way, which at once conveys the thrill of restaurant cooking and the wisdom of the author, while making for a charged reading experience. “Don’t just slam them into the pan and manhandle,” she advises in a recipe for razor clams with smoked paprika butter. Her carrot-peeling advice is equally blunt: “Long fluid strokes please—do not chisel away at them into a cubist rendering.” At the end of an entry for salt and sugar-cured green tomatoes, she challenges the imagination by planting a suggestion, like any good boss would, “We should figure out something to do with the interesting cured tomato water.... Maybe the bartenders have an idea?” Twelve of the book’s 13 chapters are jammed with intensely flavored entries. The other, entitled “Garbage,” finds purpose for limp celery and smoked fish scraps, of which the author warns, “I’ll kill you if you waste it.” Perhaps a little fear is warranted after all.

  • Library Journal

    November 15, 2014

    Acclaimed chef Hamilton (Blood, Bones, & Butter) illuminates the differences between home and restaurant cooking with these 250 succulent dishes from Prune, her restaurant in New York City's East Village. The recipe for roasted capon on garlic croutons, for instance, yields eight to 16 "orders," calls for such professional tools as a hotel pan and walk-in refrigerator and tells readers what to do if they're running behind during a restaurant service. Other recipes, rife with chef lingo and candid advice on everything from how to extend the life of costly ingredients to how to avoid angering the Health Department, are entertaining to read but onerous. Still, simpler offerings (e.g., sour cream and toasted caraway omelette, canned sardines with Triscuits, Dijon mustard, and cornichons) will tempt home cooks. VERDICT Like Suzanne Goin's The A.O.C. Cookbook and April Bloomfield's A Girl and Her Pig, this unique cookbook highlights the personality and creative process of a top female chef. Highly recommended for would-be restaurant professionals.

    Copyright 2014 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

  • Booklist

    October 15, 2014
    Chef at New York City's Prune, Hamilton has reaped kudos for her inventive and deeply satisfying cooking. Long queues form in the East Village on Sunday mornings for her brunch. The myriad recipes that underlie Prune's menus appear in these pages. They are not much designed for the home cook but are meant for professional chefs: instructions include such directions as Don't let this sit in the pass and plating directives. She even explains how waiters should pronounce certain dishes. Recipes range from a complex cold pork with tuna sauce to a simple butter-and-sugar sandwich. There's also a grand section on the family meal, the daily repast served to staff before the restaurant opens to the public, some recipes demonstrating how to use kitchen oddments to advantage for that service. Despite the book's address to fellow restaurateurs, skilled home chefs can find a number of ways to profit from a fair number of Hamilton's creations.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2014, American Library Association.)

  • Publishers Weekly (starred review) "Fresh, fascinating . . . entirely pleasurable . . . Since 1999, when the chef Gabrielle Hamilton put Triscuits and canned sardines on the first menu of her East Village bistro, Prune, she has nonchalantly broken countless rules of the food world. The rule that a successful restaurant must breed an empire. The rule that chefs who happen to be women should unconditionally support one another. The rule that great chefs don't make great writers (with her memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter). And now, the rule that restaurant food has to be simplified and prettied up for home cooks in order to produce a useful, irresistible cookbook. . . . [Prune] is the closest thing to the bulging loose-leaf binder, stuck in a corner of almost every restaurant kitchen, ever to be printed and bound between cloth covers. (These happen to be a beautiful deep, dark magenta.)"--The New York Times "One of the most brilliantly minimalist cookbooks in recent memory . . . at once conveys the thrill of restaurant cooking and the wisdom of the author, while making for a charged reading experience."
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