Starred review from September 18, 2023
Lebanese-British journalist Hankir (editor of Our Women on the Ground) explores in this creative study how a ubiquitous cosmetic has been used over the millennia as a way to both connect to a sense of tradition and to express individuality. Historically, kohl and similar sources of eyeliner protected both men and women from dust, sun, water, bacteria, and other irritants in the deserts of Africa and the Middle East. It has since imbued wearers with a sense of empowerment, according to Hankir, who notes that Iranian women assert their limited freedom with eyeliner, balancing their “desire for self-expression against assessment of risk.” As makeup brand founder Regina Merson says of the Mexican-American Chola subculture, “a Mexican woman in eyeliner is a woman in power.” Hankir packs her reader-friendly narrative with relatable examples of cultural and geographic significance, spotlighting notable figures who used eyeliner to define themselves, including Egyptian queen Nefertiti and singer Amy Winehouse, whose thick 1960s-inspired winged eyeliner extended toward her hairline as her discomfort with her chaotic life of fame grew. As one precocious 12-year-old remarks, “Eyeliner shows your personality.” Throughout, Hankir maintains an appealing sense of intimacy as she recounts her own experience of expressing her Lebanese and Egyptian heritage by perfecting the eyeliner essential to her style. This captivating account reveals the complex significance of a seemingly simple adornment.

September 15, 2023
An exploration of the mystery, beauty, and potency of eyeliner. At first blush, a book about eyeliner would seem to be so esoteric that it would appeal only to fashion addicts, but it turns out to be an absorbing piece of work. Lebanese-British journalist Hankir, editor of Our Women on the Ground, mixes her personal experiences with the social history of eyeliner. Eyeliner reached its first peak in ancient Egypt, with paintings of the era showing women and men adorned with eyeliner. Hankir has always been mesmerized by the famous bust of Nefertiti, which shows eyeliner in all its glory, with "wings" flowing from the sides of the eyes. The bust had a critical impact on the author, helping her to overcome her adolescent insecurities and accept living between two cultures. Nefertiti leads her to an examination of eyeliner in the Middle East, India, and Japan, and she digs through the complex cultural and historical layers. Interestingly, in Islamic countries, religious authorities frown on most cosmetics but accept eyeliner, perhaps because Muhammad used a form of it "to protect his eyes." In the West, eyeliner is not usually used by men, although there have been plenty of exceptions in the creative industries and within the queer community. There is no shortage of types and styles for women, pushed along by celebrities and social media. The latest trend is to wear only eyeliner, rejecting other makeup and accepting skin blemishes. Hankir also examines eyeliner in the context of women of color reclaiming their heritage, and she asks readers to appreciate that beauty has many roots. "To wear eyeliner and to learn about its origins is to bring not only ourselves," she concludes, "but also some of the world's most fascinating cultures, into focus." Hankir provides an engaging, colorful study while relating her own cross-cultural story.

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October 1, 2023
Journalist Hankir's first experience with eyeliner was revelatory. As a brown girl growing up in the UK, she was made to feel like an outsider, but eyeliner connected her to a "proud lineage" of non-Western women stretching back to Queen Nefertiti. In her detailed and engaging book, Hankir traces the history of this cosmetic and celebrates the "innovative contributions of people of color" and the LGBTQ+ community to the beauty industry. She explores the many reasons people use eyeliner, from Wodaabe men beautifying themselves to attract spouses, to Iranian women protesting government crackdowns, to Mexican American women honoring their cultural roots. Hankir argues convincingly that eyeliner plays a part in "how we communicate our identities and desires." Only briefly acknowledging "pretty privilege," Hankir focuses on celebrating the role of eyeliner in non-Western history and culture rather than providing a more balanced look at its impact on beauty standards and gender roles. Still, readers interested in beauty culture will be fascinated by this accessible examination of such a versatile and popular beauty product.

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Starred review from October 1, 2023

Lebanese British journalist Hankir (editor, Our Women on the Ground) writes with boldness and care as she documents many stories regarding eyeliner, whether it's about her mother's ritualistic application of it or the power women found throughout history by using it to reveal details about themselves. Hankir explains eyeliner's cultural symbolism and how for many women, especially people of color, the makeup is used to reflect one's sense of self, power, spirituality, sexuality, rebellion, and resistance or to mark rites of passage. The book showcases Hankir's research findings and insight into expressions of beauty across time and geography, with glimpses into the practice of eyeliner application in ancient Egypt, Chad, Jordan, Iran, India, and Japan. Hankir meticulously details commonalities in physical and aesthetic practices--eyeliner has consistently been used to precisely enlarge eyes and make them attractive, for example--without losing sight of cultural specificity or intersectionality. The book culminates with an analysis of social media influencers' use of hashtags about eyeliner. VERDICT A significant addition to cultural histories of self-expression. Hankir disrupts many deeply held assumptions about beauty, gender, and power.--Emily Bowles

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