by Zahra Hankir
“Cosmetic, tool of rebellion, status signifier: Eyeliner has been all these and more. Moving through millenniums and across civilizations, Hankir gives the makeup its eye-opening due.” —The New York Times Book Review
“An impressive, rigorously researched, winding path through centuries and over continents.” —NPR.org
“I loved Eyeliner. Hankir approaches her subject with dedicated curiosity, humility, and humor, blending anthropology, travel writing, memoir and history. A treat.” —Kassia St. Clair, author of The Secret Lives of Color
From the acclaimed editor of Our Women on the Ground comes a dazzling exploration of the intersections of beauty and power around the globe, told through the lens of an iconic cosmetic
From the distant past to the present, with fingers and felt-tipped pens, metallic powders and gel pots, humans have been drawn to lining their eyes. The aesthetic trademark of figures ranging from Nefertiti to Amy Winehouse, eyeliner is one of our most enduring cosmetic tools; ancient royals and Gen Z beauty influencers alike would attest to its uniquely transformative power. It is undeniably fun—yet it is also far from frivolous.
Seen through Zahra Hankir’s (kohl-lined) eyes, this ubiquitous but seldom-examined product becomes a portal to history, proof both of the stunning variety among cultures across time and space and of our shared humanity. Through intimate reporting and conversations—with nomads in Chad, geishas in Japan, dancers in India, drag queens in New York, and more—Eyeliner embraces the rich history and significance of its namesake, especially among communities of color. What emerges is an unexpectedly moving portrait of a tool that, in various corners of the globe, can signal religious devotion, attract potential partners, ward off evil forces, shield eyes from the sun, transform faces into fantasies, and communicate volumes without saying a word.
Delightful, surprising, and utterly absorbing, Eyeliner is a fascinating tour through streets, stages, and bedrooms around the world, and a thought-provoking reclamation of a key piece of our collective history.
“Cosmetic, tool of rebellion, status signifier: Eyeliner has been all these and more. Moving through millenniums and across civilizations, Hankir gives the makeup its eye-opening due.” —The New York Times Book Review
“An impressive, rigorously researched, winding path through centuries and over continents.” —NPR.org
“I loved Eyeliner. Hankir approaches her subject with dedicated curiosity, humility, and humor, blending anthropology, travel writing, memoir and history. A treat.” —Kassia St. Clair, author of The Secret Lives of Color
From the acclaimed editor of Our Women on the Ground comes a dazzling exploration of the intersections of beauty and power around the globe, told through the lens of an iconic cosmetic
From the distant past to the present, with fingers and felt-tipped pens, metallic powders and gel pots, humans have been drawn to lining their eyes. The aesthetic trademark of figures ranging from Nefertiti to Amy Winehouse, eyeliner is one of our most enduring cosmetic tools; ancient royals and Gen Z beauty influencers alike would attest to its uniquely transformative power. It is undeniably fun—yet it is also far from frivolous.
Seen through Zahra Hankir’s (kohl-lined) eyes, this ubiquitous but seldom-examined product becomes a portal to history, proof both of the stunning variety among cultures across time and space and of our shared humanity. Through intimate reporting and conversations—with nomads in Chad, geishas in Japan, dancers in India, drag queens in New York, and more—Eyeliner embraces the rich history and significance of its namesake, especially among communities of color. What emerges is an unexpectedly moving portrait of a tool that, in various corners of the globe, can signal religious devotion, attract potential partners, ward off evil forces, shield eyes from the sun, transform faces into fantasies, and communicate volumes without saying a word.
Delightful, surprising, and utterly absorbing, Eyeliner is a fascinating tour through streets, stages, and bedrooms around the world, and a thought-provoking reclamation of a key piece of our collective history.
Reviews-
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Starred review from September 18, 2023
Lebanese-British journalist Hankir (editor of Our Women on the Ground) explores in this creative study how a ubiquitous cosmetic has been used over the millennia as a way to both connect to a sense of tradition and to express individuality. Historically, kohl and similar sources of eyeliner protected both men and women from dust, sun, water, bacteria, and other irritants in the deserts of Africa and the Middle East. It has since imbued wearers with a sense of empowerment, according to Hankir, who notes that Iranian women assert their limited freedom with eyeliner, balancing their “desire for self-expression against assessment of risk.” As makeup brand founder Regina Merson says of the Mexican-American Chola subculture, “a Mexican woman in eyeliner is a woman in power.” Hankir packs her reader-friendly narrative with relatable examples of cultural and geographic significance, spotlighting notable figures who used eyeliner to define themselves, including Egyptian queen Nefertiti and singer Amy Winehouse, whose thick 1960s-inspired winged eyeliner extended toward her hairline as her discomfort with her chaotic life of fame grew. As one precocious 12-year-old remarks, “Eyeliner shows your personality.” Throughout, Hankir maintains an appealing sense of intimacy as she recounts her own experience of expressing her Lebanese and Egyptian heritage by perfecting the eyeliner essential to her style. This captivating account reveals the complex significance of a seemingly simple adornment.
